The French for "hollow". The Creuse is one of three departments that make up the Limousin region. It's sister departments are Haute Vienne to the West and the Correze to the south. It is true that the Creuse is one of the least inhabited departments in France. If you are looking for peaceful, unspoilt countryside of gentle pastoral scenery, dramatic landscapes and breathtaking views... and water, water everywhere, the Creuse is it.

Guéret
The Creuse's capital city grew up around an abbey founded in the 7th century, and as you walk around has an old-fashioned feel about it.

The grand Musée de la Sénatorerie, in its beautiful shady park in the middle of town, houses an exceptional collection of enamelwork and ceramics from all over the world, from the IXc to the XIVc. Limoges china is well represented. Other sections include painting and tapestry.

Close to Guéret is a new and original leisure park, in the form of a gigantic maze - for the fun of finding one's way (with clues), or simply walking, picnicking or relaxing while the children enjoy the playground. South-east of Guéret, is the XIIIc church of Moutier d'Ahun and is famous for its treasure room, wood carvings and reliquaries. Close to Moutier d'Ahun you can discover sculptures in stone, made by François Michaud, in the monastry of Ahun and take part in the art of sculpture at the school in the village Masgot.

Zig-zag south-west to the 'city of light', Bourganeuf, which changed over from oil lamps to electricity - then called 'létricité' - in 1886. Progressive local politicians and industrialists thus thrust the town into modern times and the town was granted the first electricity supply contract in France. Run on a dynamo at the Grande Eau, now the site of the Museum of Electrification, 110 volts supplied light for 60 bulbs in town. The fascinating history of the dawning of electric light is retraced at the museum, itself lit by the original generator.

Close to Bourganeuf is the Tour de Zizim, the five-storey tower built for the Ottoman Prince Djem who was given asylum from his hostile brother in 1482. Other sightseeing in this area: the Gallo-Roman sanctuary of Puy Lautard, the gorges of the Verger and the rocks at Mazuras.

Vassivière
Across the Plateau de Gentioux is the Creuse side of the lake of Vassivière, a vast lake for windsurfing, canoeing, waterskiing, sailing, boat excursions and fishing, a beach for bathing, and paths for rambling, riding or cycling. Horses and cycles can be hired on the spot. There is a sculpture park for cultural strolls through the woods and the island in the middle of the lake is home to an ambitious Contemporary Art Museum (open every day except Tuesdays), designed by the late Aldo Rossi.

The XVIIIc Maison des Chevaliers at Gentioux-Pigerolles is a journey back into the Middle Ages. Built by the masons of the Creuse, the inside, with its turning stone staircase and carved fireplaces, belies the stern exterior. This building commemorates their skill and shows how, from the XVc, their stonework became an artform, the granite was sculpted into bas-reliefs crosses, pietas....

Outside is a medieval garden, where the scents of herbs and old roses waft through the alley of the Knights of the Crusade, the maze, cupola and other typical features, an inspiration for tapestries, poetry and literature.

The granite Plateau de Millevaches is one of France's main water sources. The rivers Creuse, Corrèze, Vienne and Vézère start their journey to the sea from here. There are 46 hiking circuits, of varying lengths. Besides sheep, the plateau abounds in edible fungi, prized ingredient for some local dishes.

Felletin
Felletin is a tapestry village and was appointed the Royal Manufacture in 1689 and associated since the XVc with Aubusson in the trade. Its two churches date from XIIc and XVc: also interesting architecturally are the various chapels, a Lantern of the Dead, a dolmen, ramparts, fountains and fine period houses. And, perpetuating the reputation of the Creuse masons, Felletin houses the National Centre for the Building Trade, training master builders from all over France.

Aubusson
Everyone has heard of Aubusson's exquisite tapestries and weaving, arts still flourishing today. The Tapestry Museum has permanent and temporary exhibitions tracing their history from the XVc to the present. Contemporary artists, such as the world-renowned Jean Lurçat, still find it an inspiring medium. See also the Musée Dom Robert, the Maison des Vallenets (contemporary tapestries). For other galleries and workshops a list is available from the tourist office.

Aubusson the town is in itself charming, built along the valley of the Creuse river, with plenty of interesting architectural features from the Middle Ages, strange turrets and carved windows and doorways. To soak up the ambiance of the past, visit the XVc shingle-roofed Maison du Vieux Tapissier, with weavers' workshops and demonstrations of tapestry making. Other sightseeing musts are the ruined fortified château and the old bridge, Le Pont de la Terrade, leading to the weavers' quarter on the opposite bank of the Creuse, the clock tower, the XIIIc church of Sainte Croix and other old houses from different epochs.

Moving On
Heading north, you come to Chénerailles, and its beautiful Renaissance Château de Villemonteix (closed in winter), and Chambon with an interesting XIc church and reliquary, and finally, almost on the boundary of the département with the Allier and volcanic Puy-de-Dôme, is Evaux-les-Bains, the spa city, with its thermal springs discovered by the Romans. You can still see traces of their baths.

Having virtually looped the loop, it will be apparent by now that the Creuse is not hollow at all, but full of fascinating treasures - too many to list here.

All in all the Creuse is a beautifully unspoilt haven for all types of pastimes, like fishing in the unpolluted rivers, walking in wonderful forests and exploring the small towns and villages on bicycles.